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Bystricka
Slovakia
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Prague
Jez
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This morning's shock discovery - only one type of postcard can be bought
in Vsetin! They really haven't cottoned on to this 'getting cash out of
clueless tourists' thing yet. Anyway, after general pfaffing about and
holiday-type things, we all trundle along to the train station for a quick
roll up the valley. Our destination is Velke Karlovice, from where we can
climb up to the ridge than runs along the border between the Czech
Republic and Slovakia.
Lol and Shane are feeling keen so they
2-up it the 15 miles up the road. Said road is just like many that we saw
in Czech. Wide, smooth, empty, they seem to have been built by the
Communist government to keep the locals employed. Still, we're not
complaining, being passed by the odd Skoda makes a pleasant change fron
the near-death experience that makes up road riding in Britain. Anyway,
they beat us there and spent all the time chatting to vast numbers of
little Czech kids, all of whom are trying very hard to learn English, 'coz
they know that without it, they're screwed.
So we turn up for a local train with seven
bikes in tow. As ever, Czech railways don't bat an eyelid and its off up
the valley we go, past filthy factories, lush fields of fodder and brand
spanking new churches. We arrive, find the other two and sit down outside
the poshest resturant in town (its the only one). Cue far too many
dumplings, washed down with quality sorbets for 30 pence each.
Food sorted, we start up the hill. 50 metres later, we're
up for a break. Since we've just got as far as the church, this seems a
damn fine time for one. After the oppresion of the Communist times, the
churches are now free of state interference and the Catholic minority are
recovering.
We spend a few minutes looking around the graveyard of the ancient wooden
church before we're joined by the ancient, wooden priest. White-haired and
hunch-backed, he seems a thoroughly decent chap. With Rob to do some
translation, he tells us that the weekend before, a German couple had come
to the church to be married and that his daughter had just found herself a
job in the post office because she could speak a little English. He hands
out free postcards all round, if you're ever in the area go and say
hello.
Anyway, the digestion's had plenty of time to get to work, so its off up
the hill, this time all the way up. We're heading for the Slovak ski
village of Na Kasarni. There's a passable tarmac road all the way up, a
500 metre climb. In the shade under the trees, we can keep moving fast
enough to discourage any flies and we slowly knock down one hairpin after
another. Julia, on her third MTB ride ever, sensibly states that she'll go
as far as she wants then drop back to Velke and go back on the road. We
carry on up to the Slovak border sign where we discover that Kevin's fly repellant dissolves bicycle helmets. Then its further up.
Now, apparently we were travelling up a well-known smugglers route. I'm
not entirely sure what one would smuggle from the Czech Republic to
Slovakia, except perhaps a stable government, but anyway, nearer the top
we come across the border post proper. Its two blokes sitting in a police
Skoda, in the shade, windows down and radio on. They decide not to hassle
us, just as well as some of us would have needed visas, oops.
We stop at the base of the village to regroup. We're not too far apart,
except Jules, who's knowhere to be seen. The village comprises several
short ski-runs, plenty of chalets and a resturant. Ignoring the road that
gently contours up, we decide to take the short-cut straight up one of the
runs. Steep? A tad. Rob makes it all the way up, I get knackered and lose
it two-thirds of the way up and the rest pop wheelies then get off and
push. With all this exercise we lay on the grass at the top of the
ski-run, eating quality Czech chocolate. We're just thinking of leaving
the view and pushing the last part to the top of the ridge, but who should
appear below? Yup, Julia carried on trucking and joined us to finish the
climb.
Then, its just a short ride, stopping at the spring for ice-cold refills, and up to the ridge. The view lasts all the way to the Tatra's proper, over fifty miles distant. We can see the valley that Vsetin hides in so no messing about, off along the ridge we go, changing countries as we change sides on the track.
Now its a long rolling ride back along the ridge for fifteen miles before
dropping back into Vsetin. Well, that's the plan. We set off down the wide
track, in and out of the woods, up and down the peaks that make up the
ridge. Soon we come across a very well looked after memorial to the
partisans from the last war. Just like in Bosnia, this country is perfect
for guerilla warfare and the Nazi's had a fairly thick time of it.
The track varies from smooth and wide to wide and covered in rocks. We're
fairly blasting along, covering plenty of ground. After a decent trek we
reach the cross-country ski lodge of Kohutka where its time to cane down
more chocolate and for Julia to say goodbye and drop down off the ridge to
the road below and back to Vsetin.
Shortly after this, we stop at the top of a climb for a photo sesh, rest
and regroup. The others set off before me and while I'm getting it
together, I hear some pretty unwelcome noises from further along the path.
Following gently down the steep DH, a pile of bikes and people meet my
eyes. Now this particular DH is a flyer, but at the bottom is one of the
most sudden, unexpected double jumps that I've seen. Rob had cleared it,
Shane, James and Paul hadn't. The first two of them are standing there
swearing, Paul's sitting down looking very white. "I've broken my wrist",
when said quietly and calmly is generally a fair assesment of the
situation.
Typically for a Cambridge trip, we just happened to have a Consultant
Radiologist with us. Lol happens to have written the book on this kind of
thing, its called "Accident and Emergency
Radiology: A Survival Guide", and according to the man who knows, this was a severely displaced Colles' fracture. So there you go. Paul could
walk and the others weren't too badly hurt, so it was time to get down off
the hill. We sent Rob ahead to call an ambulance and found a logging trail
going down. Paul was exceptionally stoical about this. Admittedly there
wasn't much he could do about it at the time but he was a perfect patient.
We covered him in our spare clothes to keep him warm and we gently hiked
downwards.
As we reached the tarmac, the ambulance
came up the road. Quality motor, an IVECO Daily turbodiesel van with four
wheel drive, like what they don't import into the UK. Shame, I want one,
winch on the front, big tyres underneath, broken Paul inside. Done. Some
gypsies roll up behind in a horse-drawn carrige to add to the wierdness.
Their spare horse, running free, tastes everything in sight for edibility,
including the bikes.
Rob leaves us too to look after Paul, Paul's Czech being slightly better
than my Tamil. We head down the valley to the main road at the bottom,
Shane rolling Paul's bike alongside. From there its a simple trundle along
the main valley road and back to Vsetin, where relief at reaching home is
visible on everyone's faces. Hmm, can't remember what or where we ate that
night.
Paul joined
us later, well plastered and as laid back as ever. The broken ends of the
bone had overlapped, compressed is the technical term. The cure for this
is to clamp the upper arm, hold the fingers and pull (238 kb). Lol assured us that this barbaric practise is
exactly what Paul would recieve in England and that the treatment he'd
recieved was just as good as in any Western hospital. Only later was it
discovered that he'd also cracked his collarbone. Oops.
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