Tired now

So, today was:
1) Painting linseed oil all over the floor
2) Helping a friend home after her back scarification
3) Writing more colour cycling code

I could get into this “holiday” thing.

1) We’ve been cracking on with the floor. With copious assistance, it’s progressing and we’ll break the back of it before the builders are back. It’s a poured earth floor, so finishing it involves lots of clay slip, then linseed oil, then rubbing with linseed oil, then wax. Here’s what it looks like after the linseed oil:

Tomorrow (Wednesday), we’re having a day off, while the oil soaks in. And then tieke will be in gainful employment and I’ll be at the house with more oil, with occasional breaks to dig post holes. You are all invited to come and do your backs in.

2) It’s tatjna. There’ll be pics.

3) Just picking random RGB values and fading from one set to the next is easy but looks crap. Current method is to consider the RGB colourspace as a 3D space and loop or spiral within that space. Alternatively, loop or spiral within the Hue-Saturation-Brightness space. Either way, I’m enjoying using Processing for this. Lots of effort goes into making it look right.

Also managed to get the tiny battery charging circuit alive for the next toy, though it’s doing odd things that I haven’t the time to think about yet. Is an LTC4060 to charge three NiMCh cells off 7.5 Volts and I’m liking that I put multiple status LEDs on the board. I’m not liking the exposed thermal pad under the chip, it’s impossible to solder to so I’m bodging in some copper tape as a tatty heatsink. It may be time to invest in a frying pan and some solder paste:

9 thoughts on “Tired now

  1. We deal with exposed pads by providing solder space adjacent to the chip, putting down a lump of solder for the die attach pad, then floating the chip onto the molten solder, so we can make sure it’s actually down. But toaster ovens, hotplates, and skillets have also all worked quite well for us. It doesn’t even require solderpaste: you can just put down a dot of solder with an iron, then add some flux. I’ve found it works better to have an aluminium plate up to reflow heat, and put the board on: heating up faster helps the flux and reduces the damage to the board.
    I sure wish I could get home-etched boards to work the way you get them to work.

    1. Hmm… I shall have to try that (in the future, when I have time for a project other than the house).

      And home-etched boards? Well, I’ve done lots of process optimisation to get them looking like this. 0.65 mm spacing on pads is tricky and a pfaff, but doable.

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